Archive for the ‘Pumps’ Category

While we have many excellent options in buying new DDC pumps, who doesn’t like the idea of modifying one or repairing an old broken pump especially if it means more performance and/or variable speed capabilites.  Thanks to a DIYINHK, we have some options to play with.  Wizard1238 posted the information about his DIY kits on xtremesystems here and it quickly caught my interest.

A special thanks to wizzard1238 at DIYINHK, check out his Ebay store for DDC mods and projects.

He sent me over one of each of his PCB mods along with one pump with the mod already installed.  This first test is looking at is Toshiba controller which was already installed on a blue impeller DDC pump.  I believe this could be installed on a variety of DDC motors including the DDC1 and DDC2, but there is some question about DDC3 compatibility.  The motor he sent was an old DDC3 motor from a Mac G5, and there is some extension of wires required to make that mod work as you’ll see in the photo below.

Blue Rotor DDC (Toshiba PCB preinstalled)

First a few pictures of the modded pump with the new PCB that was sent, as noted…I haven’t tried this myself but I will in time at least on some DDC1 motors that I have handy.

Modded PCB Installed (Tach, VSP, Vref wires not installed yet)

Modded Blue Impeller Mac G5 DDC3 Motor

The  new PCB that was soldered in place and the new motor controller (Toshiba TB6588FG) makes this a whole different pump electrically.  I did a little searching and found some good information on this controller here:

Toshiba Controller

These are some of the features of this controller:

  • Sensorless drive in three-phase full-wave mode
  • PWM chopper control
  • Controls the PWM duty cycle, based on an analog input  (7-bit ADC)
  • Output current: IOUT = 1.5 A typ. (2.5 A max)
  • Power supply: VM = 7 to 42 V (50 V max)
  • Overcurrent protection
  • Forward and reverse rotation
  • Lead angle control (0°, 7.5°, 15°, 30°)
  • Overlapping commutation
  • Rotation speed detecting signal
  • DC excitation mode to improve starting characteristics
  • Adjustable DC excitation time and forced commutation time for a startup operation
  • Forced commutation frequency control: fosc/(6 × 216), fosc/(6 × 217), fosc/(6 × 218), fosc/(6 × 219

The other detail I found in the technical document is that Tjmax = 150C, it also has built in thermal protection which is pretty cool.

Here is a closer look at the PCB as a whole. It comes packaged in a very nice hard plastic reusable case.

Bottom with Toshiba Controller Shown

Top ready for installation

INSTALLATION NOTES

I haven’t done that yet, but the idea is to desolder the original laing PCB and replace it with the above.  The PCB is also likely glued down at the FETs with epoxy, so it may take some force to get the old PCB removed. Careful attention to winding wire direction and power feed are critical.  Also the winding wires must not touch the magnets, etc.  I would also advise to take care when soldering thicker guage wires that you don’t accidentally pry on the contact with the wire.  I managed to break the Tach contact on mine and had to very carefully resolder to the tiny trace nearby.  While the PCB thickness is very durable, the contact traces are fragile and you should be very delicate with them where you solder wires, and pre-bend the wires before soldering so you don’t accidentally pry the trace pad off the PCB like I did.  A fine lower wattage iron with flux handy would also be a good idea.

When I do my own, I’ll update this portion with some notes about the installation experience , for now I’ve decided to move forward with testing the pre modded pumps that were sent on the next page…

Update:  I have done this now on a DDC-1 pump, you can see a video of the Sanyo install on my Sanyo blog here:

It is a fairly advanced soldering project for it’s micro size, but not so hard that I couldn’t manage.  The hardest part is extending coil wires which isn’t necessary in the DDC-1 install unless you break a coil wire.  The DDC3 pumps however have a completely different winding setup, so you will have to extend the wires and protect those extended wires with heatshrink tubing to prevent contact with the coil or with the magnets, etc.  I would also HIGHLY recommend that you find some very fine tweezers before attempting this, you need something small enough to grab and pull on the coil wires while desoldering.

And for those that are brave enough solder the SMT components to the board, I’ll provide this detail blow up of the soldering area so you can see the diode direction, etc.  I did not attempt the separate components alternative myself so I can’t comment on how difficult that is.

Close up (CLICK TO ENLARGE)

Probably one of two most popular pumps in all of watercooling, the Koolance PMP-450 is a D5 Vario pump and packs a very strong amount of pumping power while retaining it’s built in variable speed controller.  There are multiple flavors of this pump and I have personally used the D5 series ever since my first loop watercooling several years ago.  Koolance has taken this very popular variable speed pump and added what it has been missing for far too long…an RPM sensing wire.

I would like to give special thanks to Tim from Koolance for sponsoring this powerful pump:

Overview

Koolance offers two flavors of the PMP-450 pumps.  One is the subject PMP-450 pump with variable speed control and the second is the PMP-450S pump which is fixed and designed to run at high voltage and higher speeds.

The pump comes in a factory box as a “Bare Pump” type product.

Box indicates it is a Laing D5-38/810 vario with 1/2″ barbs

Well packaged bare pump, no accessories

Both flavors of the pump share the exact same pump housing with the exception of the rear cup in which the PMP-450 has a hole where the variable speed control protrudes.

Variable speed controller and a BLUE RPM WIRE!!!!!

What’s different about the Koolance Brand pump?

There is one thing that I had always very much missed with various other D5 Vario pumps, and that’s the RPM sensor wire.  I’ve have several non Koolance brand variable speed D5 pumps now and none of them ever came with this very valuable feature.  As far as I know, Koolance is the only one to offer a variable speed Laing D5 that comes factory with the blue wire 3 pin RPM sensing wire.

Why is RPM sensing important?

RPM readout provides two important bits of information:

  • Pump and Loop Health Indicator – Having the ability to read RPM is a good way to see the pump is functioning as it was designed.  Sudden changes in RPM are indicators that either something has changed in the loop (IE a block is plugging), or that the pump is experiencing problems.  Without the ability to monitor via RPM, you are left with very little indication.
  • Pump Failure Shutdown – RPM is likely the easiest method of setting up an emergency pump shutdown routine.  Most motherboards and bios tools have some ability to set a minimum RPM level for the CPU fan header.  While this was originally intended to serve as a failsafe for CPU heat sink fans, it also works for pumps that have RPM sensing abilities.  While the D5 series may very well be the most trusted pump in all of watercooling, it’s always good practice to have a failsafe.  Running two pumps in series can give you redundancy, but what happens if you have a single pump and the pump fails…bad things can happen.  I personally have had an instance where I was working on my case and accidentally bumped a loose molex connector only to have the pump quit working.  My 8800GTX video card loop actually melted the acetal in my VGA block and the tubing had deformed to the point that it was nearly ready to burst.  Luckily I was right there looking and noticed the water boiling in my loop after getting a sense of some odd smell.  Had the tubing burst, surely there would have been disaster.  Having had the pump on a shutdown routine, would have prevented that.

Soo…I’m extremely happy that Koolance has now provided us with a D5 Vario WITH RPM sensor!  That’s awesome!

With that, let’s look around the pump.  It does come with a nice steel base which lifts the pump off the ground.  This metal base is ideal for sitting on a decoupling material since there will be no issue with heat.

1/2″ barbs come factory, no need to install a top for larger tubing

Now, let’s have a look on the inside, first and overall parts picture:

Tool-less disassembly reveals the goods, Ceramic/Carbon ball bearing, spiral volute

Another nice features of the PMP-450 is the completely tool-less ability to take the pump apart.  The pump is held in place by the large ribbed collar which simply unscrews with the twist of the hand.  The large o-ring you see sits in the volute housing and seals the metal pump housing to the thermoplastic volute.

At the heart of the pump and common to all D5 & DDC pumps is the very desirable ceramic ball bearing which mates up with a graphite impeller bearing cap.  The one point is the only point of contact and wear and makes for an extremely long life.  I have yet to see one wear out unless someone accidentally ran one dry.

The other perhaps not so obvious feature that makes a very large impact on the pump is the metal pump housing (Canned Spherical Motor).  There are two benefits to this.   One is the cooling capability and heat transfer that the metal housing provides.  Unlike it’s brother DDC series which uses a plastic housing and resulting heat buildup, the PMP-450 and it’s metal house serves extremely well to watercool the pump.  This does lead to more heat entering the water, however the cooling ability is beneficial to the pump electronics in keeping it cool.  The other benefit to this canned housing is how the metal canning creates a water tight seal around the motor housing.  While the pump is mounted any failure in the o-ring or other possible leak will generally have a very difficult time ever finding it’s way into the electronics of the pump.  I think it’s the above two reasons that make this pump one of the most durable water cooling pumps on the market.  They are water cooled, and have built in leak protection.

Easy assembly

So the pump overall has some real durability enhancing features, it has an RPM sensing wire, and very easy to take apart and clean for maintenance needs.

About the only downside I can think of is the larger size and lack of decoupling pad.  Some folks also have noted that the barbs are slightly over-sized and take a little more force to install tubing on.  I consider oversized barbs a big benefit in general because it generally leads to much lower chance of leaks.  Also decoupling material such as a piece of egg crate works perfectly fine.  I just wouldn’t recommend bolting the metal stand to the case if possible.

12V Test Results

Detail (Retest Done 12-15-12)

Koolance-PMP450-PQdetail12V

Following my usual pressure vs. flow rate testing, I came up with the following family of curves at 12V.  Generally settings 4 and 5 would be good options for average to higher restriction loops and settings 2 and 3 for very low restriction loops.  Setting 1 is really a bit too underpowered to maintain acceptable flow rates, although I would encourage anyone to try.  Note that my setting 5 is actually max and setting 1 is min.  I figure anyone that is operating at 5 likely has the knob turned to the max which is very slightly more than 5, etc.

Setting 1 through 5. Pressure is the solid lines, Watts is the dashed lines.

12V vs 24V

You may have noticed that the pump is perfectly capable of operating at higher voltage up to 24V.  This may lead you to believe there would be a significant performance difference between 12V and 24V.  I tested that below:

Setting 5 12V vs 24V, very very minor benefit with low restriction loops

Unfortunately there is not much benefit to using 24V on the PMP-450 pump.  Up to about 1.5GPM there really was no measurable benefit, on the contrary because it was consuming about 1-2 watts more.  I would not recommend purchasing a controller to operate this pump beyond 12V, it’s just not enough difference to bother with.

Performance PMP-450 vs PMP-400 + Top

While tops don’t help much on the PMP-450 pump because the factory top is already very good, they do help a lot on the PMP-400.  Soo…many have folks choose the PMP-400 for it’s slight performance advantage.  Here is that comparison:

The difference here will not add up to much temperature difference, but the PMP-400 with top is a slightly stronger pump for our more restrictive water cooling loops.

Size

One thing you should also consider with this pump is it’s relative size.  It is generally bigger than the PMP-400 or other DDC pump at least until you put on a top and lift the PMP-400 to provide more cooling.  Then they are comparable.

Size Comparison

On the left is actually the 450S model, but both (450 & 450S) are the same size so I reused the picture.  Without the lifting base, the PMP-400 is a fair amount more compact.  Size is something you’ll want to consider.  Also note that the inlet port and outlet ports are reversed between the two pumps.  The PMP-400 with top accepts the in from the top, where the PMP-450 accepts the in from the side.  Depending on your tubing configuration, you might have a preference one way or the other.

Noise

The pump is extremely quiet, particularly when installed in an acetal aftermarket top.  Check out the noise data in my pump noise round 1 piece where I tested both the stock top and after market top.

Efficiency

Not a huge deal as I think the differences are relatively small, but the PMP-400 when coupled with an aftermarket top will produce slightly more pumping power per watt than the PMP-450, but that is only after the PMP-400 has had the factory top (with an inlet elbow) removed.

Not quite as efficient as a PMP-400 with top

This is pretty minor when you’re talking about 20 watts worth of heat, but something to consider if you’re looking at running something extreme like triple pumps in series.  The PMP-400 with top is a bit more efficient by a few watts depending on the restriction.

Conclusion

Pros
  • Extremely reliable long lasting pump
  • Canned metal housing protects electronics from leak damage
  • Canned metal housing cools the pump motor very well
  • Factory Top performs very well, no inlet elbow
  • Factory Top comes with 1/2″ barbs
  • Koolance brand includes an RPM sensor wire, yes!!
  • Factory speed controller built in (no need for voltage controller to reduce speed)
  • Easy tool less entry
  • Cost – When compared to a PMP-400 plus top
  • Very Quiet
Cons
  • Larger in size
  • Not quite as powerful as a PMP-400 with top
  • Not quite as efficient as a PMP-400 with top
  • No decoupling pad or accessories (bare pump)

So there are some give and takes when compared to the PMP-400 series, but you’ll find the user base very much split out there.  I believe the durability, long life history, and cool operation are all very desirable features many prioritize highly.  I like this pump very much, and particularly like it now that Koolance has provided us with the RPM sensor.  You really can’t go wrong with either the PMP-450 or PMP-400 pumps, I use them both myself and can’t really pick a favorite because I see benefits in both models.  The nice thing about the PMP-450 is that you get a speed controller and a good 1/2″ compatible top factory out of the box.  You also get a pump that runs very cool and has a long history of reliability.  These are all very good qualities and I highly recommend it.

Cheers!
Martin

Welcome to my living review of the latest in the D5 pump bay reservoir craze. This bay reservoir is very much a modder’s  dream built with modularity in mind. Factory direct there is already so much to choose from and details that come included.  There are a variety of colors, factory LED lighting and control module, wire sleeving, pump housing, pump housing cap, rubber isolation mounts, multiple performance o-rings, and more.  I plan to spend some quality time testing this new reservoir and running through some of the features that it includes

A very special thanks to Geno (Box Gods) from Danger Den for taking so much time in developing and providing this extreme quality reservoir:

Packaging

The box arrived at my door and a very over sized 10x10x12″ shipping box with ample paper packaging and very well protected.  Within the shipping box was the Danger Den product box which is shown below:

 

There is a MONSOON within! MMRS = Monsoon Modular Reservoir System

The initial box opening presents one of two bubble cartons of goodies

The reservoir is placed in between two of these bubble cartons which serve dual purpose to house the many accessories as well as provide another layer of protection.

 

Top carton includes stop plugs, rubber vibration isolation pad, optional chrome screws, thin/red o-ring, and a DD Logo decal.

You can see the attention to detail begin here.  Some builders may want black screws, some may want chrome plated screws, Danger Den gives you both!!

Also if you are like me and frequently find my tools have walked away in younger hands, have no worries, they included two allen wrenches to modify your monsoon with, very nice!

 

Bottom carton includes the black standard pump o-ring, spare plug o-rings, thick isolation rubber, and mounting screws

Coming straight from the box, my unit came mostly assembled and wrapped in layers of foam

My particular model came pre-assembled, but I believe per the instructions some may or may not be completely assembled.  It sounds like you may have to install the decals such as the motor cover pin striping and some of the smaller parts which are all very well detailed in the user manual.  There is a full 11 pages of letter sized user manual with schematics and notes within.  This may take a little time in assembly, but the instructions are very well written and you should have no problem with guidance.

 

11 page user manual is extremely detailed

A brief topics list includes:

  • Box Contents
  • General Notes
  • Applying the Decals
  • Pump Mounting
  • LED Power Button Operation
  • LED PCB Replacement
  • Window and Faceplate Installation
  • Plug Installation
  • Mounting the reservoir in your case
  • General Operating Guidelines
  • Leak Testing

Wow, without a doubt this is the most detailed installation manual I have ever seen for a water cooling product.  Yet another indication how much thought detail has been put into the design of the product.

Overall I am extremely pleased with the packaging, everything was very well packaged and protected and made a safe journey to my home  The instruction manual is also above and beyond..

About the only thing missing are barbs, but considering the variety of preferences, it’s actually more typical that barbs are not included than including them. Just make sure you have a set of barbs or order a set to complete the package.

4/2/11 Update: Full Review is UP HERE>>

 

Continuing with the bay reservoir craze, is one Danger Den’s Monsoon Premium D5 Reservoir.  Not only can you get one in all it’s durable acetal goodness, you can get it IN COLOR!!.

Special thanks to Geno (BoxGods on XS) from Danger Den for providing this sample.  I chose the green flavor because I’m an old Kawasaki dirt bike rider…go team green!..:)

The reservoir is extremely nice looking.  It’ll be a little while until I get testing done, but in the mean time, I’ll share some more pictures.

 

Removing the top triangle cover reveals the LED PCB bottom

LED PCB, LEDs could be modified to different color if desired

Molded/Cast? acrylic piece is reinforced by the aluminum bezel

Simple pump inlet port is very open to the reservoir, no baffles.

Outlet port manifold cover and LED windows are glued in place

A lot of thought has gone into the LED controls. Push rods here, make sure long end goes in first.

Rubber isolator mounts in place

Bottom

Pump volute is a nice completely spiral shape ever increasing in radius. The outlet splits in the manifold to two ports.

 

The nice spiral shaped volute should translate to great performance and minimal stress on the motor bearing.  A true spiral shape is generally the most efficient form for centrifugal pumps as it allows the impeller to produce flow in all directions.  The multiple ports are intended to serve as splitting options for parallel loop (advanced split loop design).  My general first impression is very good, the acetal construction is of high machined quality, and there is a plethora of details such as the LED control module and pump cover that exhibits a high attention to detail.  Then there is the multitude of color options that should appeal to many system builders looking for personal color touch.

Of coarse there are several colors and variations of colors to choose from.  I love the green being a Kawasaki fan, but they have black, red,blue and variations of trim colors as well.

Check out the options>> Danger Den’s Monsoon Premium D5 Reservoir

 

Youtube videos by other users:

Darth Beavis does a little walk through on an early prototype:

thegcpu does a nice little unboxing here:

 

BlueAquaXS does a quick side by side comparison with the Koolance reservoir

 

 

Cheers!
Martin

 

Welcome to another pump speed controller (CTR-SPD10), and before you pass by thinking you can get the same thing from any fan controller, take a closer look.  This little analog controller is also built with a transformer so you get slight “Overvolt” capabilities as well as undervolting.  I used these controllers in my pump noise testing because of this ability and they are really well suited to driving the PMP-400  or other DDC pumps that otherwise don’t have speed control.

I would also like to thank Tim from Koolance.com for providing this sample.  These controllers gave me the ability to complete my noise testing in complete silence (my test PSU clicks very loud when switching) Thanks!!

Specifications

The controller housing notes the range of use is 7.5V to 12.7V out at 25W max.  This is really ideal for the PMP-400 or similar fixed pump.

Photos

The unit is compact in size and could be installed in a variety of locations.  It comes with a piece of velcro as one option and also a pair of screws where you could solidly mount the face by drilling three holes (one for the control knob and two for the mounting screws).

It is just over 3″ long and about 1-3/4″ wide and just under 1″ tall.

 

Input is a 4 pin molex, output is a 3 pin header

 

The control knob is located up front and has a small phillips slot

Testing

I figured the most common use of the controller would be controlling a DDC pump such as the Koolance PMP-400 pump, so that’s what I used to test the controller.  I wanted to see what the actual voltage range was when feeding it exactly 12.0V while under load of the pump.  I also wanted to take a look at the pump performance and rpm to see what changed under this control.

Minimum Voltage As Measured to pump = 7.90V

Maximum voltage as measured to pump = 13.28V

Overall, this is a good range of voltage control for this pump with the exception of the maximum being a touch high.  I have found that the PMP-400 pump doesn’t like to start beyond 13.0V, so you will need to be careful to dial down the controller just a bit to ensure starting.  12.8V is about the maximum overvolting that I would consider, so that’s what I used in testing the pump.

I did my normal pump testing to measure dynamic head pressure (outlet – inlet) while increasing restriction and measuring flow rate as shown above.  I also adjusted the pump voltage via the Koolance CTR-SPD10 to several fixed voltage ranges to see how the performance is impacted.

Performance Pressure vs. Flow Rate Summary, up to a 15% pressure head increase

Here is a look at the RPM or speed of the pump for noise reduction.

Speed (RPM) comparison, up to a 35% RPM reduction

Conclusion

This is a great little pump controller particularly for the many pumps which are fixed in speed such as the PMP-400 or other DDC pumps.  This controller essentially gives you variable power and noise control over a pump that is otherwise fixed.  In addition it gives you the option of over-volting the pump due to it’s unique transformer.  While there are many fan controllers that could also reduce speed, this is the only option I know of that can go down to 8V and UP to 13V.  Most fan controller will have a maximum below 12.0V because of losses within the fan controller.

Pros

  • 25 watts capacity is ideal for the PMP-400
  • Over-volt (13Volts) capability can increase pump pressure head by up to 15%
  • Under-volt (8 Volts) capability can reduce pump noise for ultra silence
  • Compact size make is fairly easy to install in a variety of locations
  • Simple operation up and down

Cons

  • Maximum volts can exceed pump startup limit (user needs to reduce slightly from maximum)
  • All manual control only

Overall I am very happy with this controller, particularly for it’s unique ability to not only provide a solid 12V which most fan controllers can’t do, but also to increase it for an extra bump in performance.  I would suggest installing extra cooling on pumps that you are considering overvolting, as any sort of voltage increase will also increase heat output of the pump.

Where to Buy

Koolance

Cheers!
Martin