Laing DDC-1 & DDC-1T

Posted: March 9, 2011 in Pumps
Tags: , , , ,

Yes that’s right, we’re taking a step back in history due to finding a source for new old stock DDC-1 pumps manufactured in 2003. bmaverick from and xtremesystems has boxes full of these. Perhaps I’ve been in the water-cooling hobby too long, but I was pretty excited to get my hands on these guys especially since they were in new condition.   bmaverick explained to me that he and his father acquired a whole lot of these (a few hundred) prior to their heading for the scrappers.  What a save!

He went into more details about the history behind the various companies that were involved with the development of these pumps that now shape a big part of what water cooling is today.  That includes Delphi Electronics Cooling, Laing and ITT.  I don’t quite understand all the various historical details, but I do know this DDC-1 pump was one of the first in the extremely popular DDC series we use today in various flavors.

bmaverick was interested in verifying the PQ performance curve and I was happy to do so.  I also figured I will include this for some additional pump noise work later.


DDC-1s ready for action!

The black impeller with the larger inlet is the key identifying feature



My sample plug pinout

These pumps were destined for OEM use, so you will need to solder/crimp on your own molex connections.    The DDC-1 only has a power/ground,  but the DDC-1T includes four wires.  As the photo shows above, #1 was power, #2 was RPM sensor, and #3 was ground.  I found the RPM reading was high using my crystalfontz by what I believe may be a factor of 6.  RPM would read around 22,000RPM, but when divided by 6, it gives more reasonable 3600-3800 RPM.  This pump also does not have any voltage protection to prevent over volting.  You probably could experiment with 14V or more which would get closer to DDC2 performance levels, but I’m not sure what that would do to life span.  These are a piece of watercooling history for me that I wanted to keep in perfect condition, so I didn’t want to push overclocking the pumps for testing purposes.


First I tested both pump models with the factory top and they both performed the same. The two wire model (DDC-1) was easiest to wire as it was fairly intuitive that red = +, black = ground. I just recycled an old fan molex adapter and made a molex out of it. The DDC-1T took a bit more work figuring out the wiring, although the above pictures should make that pretty easy now. Here is how the pumps tested with the factory top:Even in stock top form, the pump is very powerful. An average restriction system will still see just over 1 GPM, and a low restriction system will see around 1.4 GPM. In addition the pump is extremely efficient in power consumption and heat dump. About 9 watts is all it consumes which leave the pump base feeling cooler than the higher speed models.To add to the testing, I ran a quick test on the XSPC top. Here is how it looks with that top installed:XSPC top, DD fatboy barbs, and soldered molex

With the XSPC top, it does have a fair performance boost along with some additional power consumption/heat at higher flows.   With the top in place the pump will have enough power to maintain 1GPM for medium/high restriction loops to low restriction loops.  A low restriction loop could see around 1.75GPM.

The following is a compilation of the above two tests along with my previous DDC3.1 testing.

In stock top trim, the DDC-1 is actually a touch more powerful than the DDC3.1, particularly for higher restrictions. When the XSPC top is installed the tables turn slightly as the DDC3.1 has a slight advatage at lower restriction conditions.   The top is just slightly more tuned for the newer pump model and the smaller impeller it seems.  Both pumps perform very similarly well and most people would not tell a difference thermally.


After testing, I did notice some warmth to the base of the pump, but nothing as extreme as the current 18watt models.  The base was warm to the touch, but much cooler than the current DDC3.25 or MCP-35X pump models drawing 18+ watts.  The pump typically draws around 9-10 watts, so it has about half as much heat to dissipate and does a good job at that without any extra cooling.  As always, it never hurts to have some airflow over the base, but these are not nearly as warm as the higher watt DDC2, DDC3.2, DDC3.25, DDC35X pumps.


I will be doing more on this later, but I think these are a touch noisier than your current generation DDC3 series but still good for most water-coolers which likely have multiple case fans driving radiators.


The price is amazing for purchasing a piece of history like this and these little pumps are plenty of reliable power for most users.  For those looking to put away some history or for those that simply want a very reliable and strong pump at an amazing price, look no further.


Head over to bmaverick’s for sale thread.  He is selling these privately at OCN here for an amazing price…get them while they last!

Or you can contact him via email here:

Or one of his sites here:

Prices may change, so check with him prior, but his latest for sale thread had them for $35 shipped to the USA.  That’s about half price of the new generation pumps, so that’s a heck of a deal!

  1. Jason Green says:

    Did you ever try driving the 1T with a PWM signal?

    • Martinm210 says:

      I tried using my custom circuit PWM board, but it wouldn’t respond. It could possibly be some sort of voltage sensing circuit similar to the DIY Sanyo board that responds to 5V or less though. I didn’t spend much time trying anything other than a PWM input which didn’t seem to work for me.

  2. BMaverick says:

    2-wire pumps are all sold to happy WCing homes.

    Still have plenty of the DDC-1T (4-wire) pumps available.

    BMaverick, meeting your DDC-1T pump needs

  3. Mike says:

    I recently purchased the DIYINHK 10watt PCB board replacement for my DDC1-T pump however this PCB replacement only has the 3 input pads and as you know the DDC1-T has 4 and all four are connected to my motherboard . Does anyone know how It should be soldered or should I have used the 18w sanyo PCB board as a replacement since it has the other input pads?

    Thanks for all your info!! Great Reading!!!


    • Martinm210 says:

      I was never able to get the fourth connector on the 1T to work if it’s the same black impeller type as I had. I believe it some sort of OEM speed control wire, but PWM signal didn’t work for me.

      My personal preference would be the the Sanyo replacement board due to lower noise, and I would just wire a normal three pin fan header to it (ground/power/RPM).

      Unless you were somehow able to get the pump to control speed, that fourth wire wasn’t working anyhow.

      Regardless the higher powered Toshiba fourth connector also isn’t a PWM signal input. It is for speed control, but it’s a voltage sensing type speed control, not PWM.

      Anyhow, I would use the one you got and go to three pin.

      • Mike says:

        Thanks to your posts I cam into contact with BMaverick and now I have a great alternative to reconditioning my old OEM DDC chambered pumps on my G5. Thanks for all your help!!! Happy Holidays,


  4. Still have plenty of pumps available. Both for the WCing community and the G5 replacement pumps.

  5. Cecilia says:

    We are a group of volunteers and opening a new scheme in our community.
    Your site offered us with valuable information to work on.
    You have done an impressive job and our whole
    community will be thankful to you.

  6. qiplayer says:

    this pump is great. I have two 280x30mm rads, one 360x50mm, and one 480x45mm+ 3 gpu with universal waterblock, and cpu. DDC1t rpm are 4140!!! amazingly strong. 2 280 radiators are attached on the side of the case, the 360 is attached behind. Just to tell you there are quite long tubes, and in the circuit I have 10 fittings with angle of 90°degree.
    I must say I choosed rads (coolance280mm, EK360mm, xspc480mm), and waterblocks (EK) that have all quite a low restriction. But I didn’t though that 1 pump would make it.
    Of course the rpm don’t tell the flow rate but when I saw the first bubbles I can tell the water is going fast.
    I absolutely suggest it. I took a black 3mm sponge (tooken from a ssd box) and put it under the pump. On the top I have the alphacool metal cover. The pump is also very silent. Be careful putting it connected to fan controller because it draws 18 watts.
    Have fun!