DIYINHK DDC Pump Toshiba PCB Replacement Mod

Posted: April 14, 2011 in Pumps
Tags: , , , , ,

While we have many excellent options in buying new DDC pumps, who doesn’t like the idea of modifying one or repairing an old broken pump especially if it means more performance and/or variable speed capabilites.  Thanks to a DIYINHK, we have some options to play with.  Wizard1238 posted the information about his DIY kits on xtremesystems here and it quickly caught my interest.

A special thanks to wizzard1238 at DIYINHK, check out his Ebay store for DDC mods and projects.

He sent me over one of each of his PCB mods along with one pump with the mod already installed.  This first test is looking at is Toshiba controller which was already installed on a blue impeller DDC pump.  I believe this could be installed on a variety of DDC motors including the DDC1 and DDC2, but there is some question about DDC3 compatibility.  The motor he sent was an old DDC3 motor from a Mac G5, and there is some extension of wires required to make that mod work as you’ll see in the photo below.

Blue Rotor DDC (Toshiba PCB preinstalled)

First a few pictures of the modded pump with the new PCB that was sent, as noted…I haven’t tried this myself but I will in time at least on some DDC1 motors that I have handy.

Modded PCB Installed (Tach, VSP, Vref wires not installed yet)

Modded Blue Impeller Mac G5 DDC3 Motor

The  new PCB that was soldered in place and the new motor controller (Toshiba TB6588FG) makes this a whole different pump electrically.  I did a little searching and found some good information on this controller here:

Toshiba Controller

These are some of the features of this controller:

  • Sensorless drive in three-phase full-wave mode
  • PWM chopper control
  • Controls the PWM duty cycle, based on an analog input  (7-bit ADC)
  • Output current: IOUT = 1.5 A typ. (2.5 A max)
  • Power supply: VM = 7 to 42 V (50 V max)
  • Overcurrent protection
  • Forward and reverse rotation
  • Lead angle control (0°, 7.5°, 15°, 30°)
  • Overlapping commutation
  • Rotation speed detecting signal
  • DC excitation mode to improve starting characteristics
  • Adjustable DC excitation time and forced commutation time for a startup operation
  • Forced commutation frequency control: fosc/(6 × 216), fosc/(6 × 217), fosc/(6 × 218), fosc/(6 × 219

The other detail I found in the technical document is that Tjmax = 150C, it also has built in thermal protection which is pretty cool.

Here is a closer look at the PCB as a whole. It comes packaged in a very nice hard plastic reusable case.

Bottom with Toshiba Controller Shown

Top ready for installation

INSTALLATION NOTES

I haven’t done that yet, but the idea is to desolder the original laing PCB and replace it with the above.  The PCB is also likely glued down at the FETs with epoxy, so it may take some force to get the old PCB removed. Careful attention to winding wire direction and power feed are critical.  Also the winding wires must not touch the magnets, etc.  I would also advise to take care when soldering thicker guage wires that you don’t accidentally pry on the contact with the wire.  I managed to break the Tach contact on mine and had to very carefully resolder to the tiny trace nearby.  While the PCB thickness is very durable, the contact traces are fragile and you should be very delicate with them where you solder wires, and pre-bend the wires before soldering so you don’t accidentally pry the trace pad off the PCB like I did.  A fine lower wattage iron with flux handy would also be a good idea.

When I do my own, I’ll update this portion with some notes about the installation experience , for now I’ve decided to move forward with testing the pre modded pumps that were sent on the next page…

Update:  I have done this now on a DDC-1 pump, you can see a video of the Sanyo install on my Sanyo blog here:

It is a fairly advanced soldering project for it’s micro size, but not so hard that I couldn’t manage.  The hardest part is extending coil wires which isn’t necessary in the DDC-1 install unless you break a coil wire.  The DDC3 pumps however have a completely different winding setup, so you will have to extend the wires and protect those extended wires with heatshrink tubing to prevent contact with the coil or with the magnets, etc.  I would also HIGHLY recommend that you find some very fine tweezers before attempting this, you need something small enough to grab and pull on the coil wires while desoldering.

And for those that are brave enough solder the SMT components to the board, I’ll provide this detail blow up of the soldering area so you can see the diode direction, etc.  I did not attempt the separate components alternative myself so I can’t comment on how difficult that is.

Close up (CLICK TO ENLARGE)

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Comments
  1. Doug says:

    how much and were can i get one thanks

  2. Jim says:

    Sure you can buy them, just not on Ebay anymore.. $15 for the Toshiba cont. PCB and $10 for the Sanyo cont. PCB + $4 for world wide shipping. Here is the link: http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/6-ddc-pump

  3. ned says:

    Hi can someone tell me which pcb i should go for on DIYINHK website there is a 10W blue and 18W white one. My pump is a DDC 3.2 PWM with a burnt board, i know i won’t get pmw but can i still control the white one by doing what’s been said on page 3 ?.

  4. ned says:

    The pot you used .5W i can only find the following
    http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=RP8516&w=50k&form=KEYWORD
    Would this do as it has .01W .02W Rating ?

  5. ned says:

    Hi i’ve finally revived my dcc pump and used a 50k pot because loss of pwm. where are you reading your vsp? i put a voltmeter on pot terminals it reads 2.39v at lowest but wen i turn it up the reading gets lower ? have you got any idea why that is?

  6. ned says:

    Lol i had the meter on vsp and vref stupid me, i found ground at the end and it worked according to your chart. very quite pump at the lowest setting i am truly impressed and glad i did this to revive my pump saved me $200… i am all for MODS 🙂 thank you martin for you great work.

  7. Fernando says:

    hi,I got I new pcb(the white one) and I want do add a controller,is it possible to add the volt controller on a molex extention instead of cutting the pcb and adding there?
    thx

    • Martinm210 says:

      Probably, reducing molex voltage is generally an option with most pumps, but most also have a minimum start up necessary so if you accidentally adjust by accident too low the pump won’t start. That can be bad if you were unaware which is why I tend to steer clear of regular fan controllers. Most pumps seem like they need at least 8V to start.

  8. Fernando says:

    i got the pumb back form my friend(he did the soldering) but i think is not soldered correctly,the pump just shakes arround and the rotor doesnt spin.
    it was the v3.3 with the white pcp,do you know the wires diagram?

  9. diyinhk says:

    Hi, a new pcb with pwm control is just done! I am happy if you have interest to play with it but I lose your email and address…

    • Martinm210 says:

      Sorry, I moved and not currently planning anymore testing or reviews. PWM sounds really cool though, would be particularly good if it shared the same noise quality of the sanyo controller but with the Toshiba power all under PWM..:)