XSPC Raystorm X2O 750 RS240 Extreme Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit

Posted: February 16, 2013 in Blocks, Fans, Kits, Pumps, Radiators
Tags: , , , , , ,

Installation Review

The installation was about average for you DIY system, not particularly easy and not too difficult either.  It did not require any modification to the kit parts and was pretty much normal assembly of a lot of small parts, cutting tubes to fit, pulling thing apart for filling, bleeding and leak testing, and finally assembly.

Rather than writing that all out with lots of photos, I elected to try more of a video method similar to the H220 installation video to give you a better sense of the work and time involved.  In total, I spent the better part of maybe 4-6 hours doing assembly, bleeding, and getting the system operational.  Having some trouble in rendering my video, I will update this after getting some videos rendered and uploaded.

XSPCRaystorm750-16

Generally the installation was about what you would expect from a DIY kit, it’s a lot of work and time getting all those little pieces together, bleeding, and finally putting it to work.  Bleeding however went really well, I had the radiator on bottom and it literally took nothing more than filling up the reservoir once.  Turning it on, letting it bleed a bit, topping off, and done.

The only difficulty I really had was a leak from the extra port on the reservoir.  I didn’t check that plug before starting and it isn’t apparently tightened from the factory.  Luckily I had my drives pulled out as I should so no harm done.  I also dropped a spring across the floor as is typical of these loose parts mounting systems.  The block mounting alone consists of the block, two loose hold downs and 20 parts and pieces that you have to put together.  None of this is particularly difficult other than it being all loose parts that are easy to drop.

Generally the installation went well, but it did take the better part of half a day or so and I cut the recommended bleed time (24 hours) down to only about an hour before putting it back together.  If this is your first time, you should prepare on taking up a weekend to assemble everything and get tubes cut to length, then pull out all of your hardware, then bleed for 24 hours, and finally put your system back together.  You don’t want to take a risk with leaks being your first install, so you should plan on taking plenty of time.  I have put dozens and dozens of loops together and still managed to get one little leak just in this review (Reservoir spare port plug I missed), so it is very possible and not worth risking a leak test on top of your precious hardware.

The User Manual is also an excellent resource in describing the installation, I would encourage you to read through it to get a better sense of installation:

http://www.xs-pc.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/12/raystorm-kit-revised.pdf

While the manual is written to cover all the various kit options, it does describe things clearly with ample pictures.

It breaks it down into:

Preparation: This is basically mounting your barbs and fans to the blocks/rads, etc.  Also includes preparing the socket for the right backplate, hold down, etc.

Planning: The manual also describes some of the basics in radiator mounting locations and loop order discussion, etc.

Installation: This shows you attachment of the radiator, cutting the tubing, filling, bleeding, mounting the block. It is just the basics and skips over some things out like how far to tighten the springs, etc.  It should get you there and give you the basics.

INSTALLATION VIDEO 1 Preparation & Build

This first video is showing you most of the steps in getting the parts put together and building the loop just prior to filling and bleeding.  It covers the basics of installing the barbs and fans, etc.  Preparing the LGA2011 socket, then temporarily installing the block, radiator, and pump/res into the case for tube routing.  I then show you basic tubing installation, clamps, etc. and remove the block from the motherboard.  I don’t show you at the end, but I also removed my hard drive cages so that any point on the loop that leaked would not drip on any valuable electronics.  If you are brand new to the process I would take that a step further and completely remove your motherboard and hardware from the case including the power supply.  The last thing you want is water to drip on some part and start guessing if it’s dry or not before using it again.  You are better to play it safe and simply remove all hardware that could be dripped on.

After it uploads the following video should be viewable:

INSTALLATION Part 2 – Filling & Bleeding.

I am having trouble with Sony Vegas constantly crashing, so I’ll just write out the rest of it.

Part 2 is basic filling and bleeding:

  1. Add a drop of Deadwater (Copper Sulfate) to reservoir
  2. Install small funnel in reservoir fill port.
  3. Fill up slowly using distilled water.
  4. Add ATX jumper to PSU
  5. Turn on PSU and watch for leaks.  If Pump starts to suck in air, stop and top off reservoir before continuing. In my run I did find one small leak from forgetting to tighten the spare reservoir port plug and a little water dripped down the front of my case fans. I dried everything up good after tightening that plug really good and continued.
  6. If pump makes noise, turn off PSU and turn back on a couple of times to dislodge air.
  7. Top off reservoir
  8. Allow to bleed for 24 hours.

Installation Part 3 – Install Waterblock Permanently

  1. Clean processor with Arctic Clean or equivalent
  2. Apply K2 Thermal Interface Material provided.  Instructions suggest a spread thin method although I prefer a long vertical line with a short horizontal line in the middle.
  3. Remove protective film from copper base
  4. Slid Block over studs
  5. Install Metal Washers
  6. Install Plastic Washers
  7. Install Springs
  8. Install thumbnuts just enough to make contact with springs
  9. Tighten thumbnuts in alternating pattern one or two turns at a time.
  10. After a little tightening, wiggle block nice and centered.
  11. Continue tightening thumbnuts until some resistance is felt.  The instruction do not specify how much, so you’ll have to guess and just try to keep all four corners even.
  12. Remove ATX jumper and plug back into motherboard.
  13. Turn on and do one last leak check, make sure there is not anything leaking at CPU block barbs.  Feel with hands at all fitting connections for anything cold or wet.
  14. That’s All, Enjoy!

XSPCRaystorm750-17

Sorry for the poor photo of the reservoir, but this gives you some idea of what the brushed black face looks like next to gloss black of the Switch 810.

It would probably look better if I pulled the face off and painted it gloss black to match.

Thermal testing is up next!..

Logo-FrozenCPU

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Comments
  1. Cookiejar says:

    Hi Martin,

    In your RS360 review, the out/in air delta was about 8.8 degrees for 1400rpm fans at about 200w of heat. In this review, given the smaller RS 240 but similar fan speeds and heat loads, I was expecting to see out/in air deltas of maybe 13 degrees? Otherwise, the air wouldn’t be able to carry away the same amount of thermal energy.

    However from your tests, the RS240 seems to be able to dissipate the heat of your overclocked 3930K with only an out/in delta of 3 degrees. This befuddles me, and I can’t understand how the system achieves thermal equilibrium. How is all the rest of the heat lost?

    What are your thoughts on this? Could there be some difference in your air temp measurements as compared to the measurements done in your radiator tester. Maybe the rest of the case air is mixing with the air out?

    Thanks and your site is a great read = ).

    • Martinm210 says:

      Disregard the air out in these kits. It is located such that it gets cold intake air from the front case fan and really not useful or accurate. The air out in my rad bench is controlled and accurate but it is very hard to measure air out without some sort of rad test bench.

      That’s the downside of case testing. It better represents thermals and noise but harder to measure something like air out when you have air coming in all over the place. In the kit testing air in and core temps are really the only thing I can control very well.

  2. Steve Vang says:

    So this kit has everything needed to water cool? No need to buy tubes and screws?

  3. kopi luwak says:

    Hi! I realize this is kind of off-topic however I needed to ask.
    Does running a well-established blog like yours require a lot of work?

    I am brand new to running a blog however I do write in my diary every day.

    I’d like to start a blog so I can share my experience and thoughts online.
    Please let me know if you have any kind of ideas or tips
    for brand new aspiring blog owners. Thankyou!

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