XSPC Raystorm X2O 750 RS240 Extreme Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit

Posted: February 16, 2013 in Blocks, Fans, Kits, Pumps, Radiators
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Unboxing Part 3


This is the coil of tubing you get.  It is a nice size and my personal favorite size 7/16″ ID x 5/8″ OD, there should be plenty for most simple loops, and it is clear which provides fluid color options.  Regarding color, I would describe it as an off clear with a slight yellow tint to the tubing similar to the photo you see below.


Regarding durometer or flexibility, I would describe it as stiff.  It’s perhaps not quite as stiff to bend as PVC tubing from Home Depot, but it’s not a whole lot softer than that either.  The rigidity was not at all an issue for installation, and I was able to get the slightly undersized tubing onto the oversized barbs (as I prefer doing), but it didn’t give me a sense of quality either.  I would call it stiffer and more yellow than Duralene which has been my go to low cost clear tubing and much more stiff than Tygon 3603 or the Swiftech H220 tubing.

Again, it functions just fine, just not the nicest tubing I’ve used.  The stiffness I don’t mind so much, but the slightly yellow/brown color does bother me a bit as it sort of makes the water look dirty when the light hits it just right. Duralene with its more bluish color looks better clear.


In measuring what I used I came up with about 4.5′ of tubing.  XSPC makes some colored UV reactive tubing.

At $2.5 per foot, the colored tube upgrade would only cost you $12.50 + shipping which IMHO is well worth it. I don’t have much personal experience with their latest stuff, but the pictures look good.  I am just not happy with the brownish color of the kit tubing and would very much prefer something black or colored over the clear/brown.  I have had excellent results running distilled + biocide and using a different brand UV tubing for a long 2+ year run.  Colored tubing and distilled + biocide is my personal favorite way to get good long lasting color.  Dyes and colored fluids all fade over time and need more routine maintenance.  It’s too bad the XSPC black tubing didn’t come standard, which would look good too.

CPU Block

I’ve tested and reviewed this block in detail before, the only thing to change since I have tested it is the acrylic hold down is now injection molded rather than machined.  It is still a good performing block with generally low restriction micro-channels.  For more details about the block please visit my post here.  In my previous review, my only concern was in regards to the acrylic hold down durability, but since that time I’ve seen nothing about anyone having any issues, so I can only presume the hold down acrylic is holding up just fine.  The block was also one of the lower restrictions blocks I had tested at the time and thermal performance was at the lead at the time.  Since then there has been a few other blocks advancing in both areas, but it’s a good block with a little higher than average amount of bowing which makes it particularly good for smaller core processors such as the 2600K, we’ll see how it does on the larger 3930K as it does tend to prefer lesser amounts of bowing.  Last but not least, the mounting mechanism is getting a bit dated these days.  My one gripe is the lack of specified mounting force.  Without any spring/thread stop mechanism, it is left up to the user to apply pressure on all four corners per their own “judgment”.  This can lead to too little or too much pressure and it can also lead to the block not being perfectly level.  With this being an entry level water-cooling kit, it is important to simplify the mounting system as much as possible.  In addition, I am all thumbs and routinely drop little washers and springs.   Sure enough during the install I had an “Oh Crap” moment as one of the springs took orbit across the room.


Generally a good performing block & low restriction, however a more difficult to use (Loose Parts & No Prescribed Pressure) mounting system.  Nice sleeved LED module though gives you two blue 3mm LEDs to light up the block nicely.


So while I may have reservations about the mounting system, I do like the looks of the block and like the extra attention to detail with the LED module.  LEDs are not for everyone, but I think many just starting probably like that feature and it does give a nice perimeter glow effect to the mounted block. It also just has four little 3mm LED holes in the hold down, so you could build your own color and module pretty easily via any 3mm LED.


I have also previously reviewed this pump as a standalone review here.


This does have the new V4 impeller


It’s not quite as heavy duty as the H220 in size, but it is a good improvement over the previous 750 generation.


The back of the pump does also offer an extra port which is important for parallel loops and also important to TIGHTEN!

That’s right I forgot to tighten that little chrome plug when I first filled my loop.  Luckily I was taking the proper leak testing precautions and only dripped water on a couple of fans down below which didn’t hurt anything.


Regarding the pump life, I’m not sure.  There is no service life rating on this pump.  You can see what it looks like inside here, where it is completely submerged in the reservoir itself.  This does ensure the pump remains cool and it also helps reduce noise in the pump being surrounded by water like that.

I like the reservoir visuals and construction.  I also like the pump performance level and noise qualities.  My only reservation is the lack of MTBF rating and rather short 1 year warranty when competing products have 3-5 year warranty periods and pumps rated at up to 60,ooo hours.

In general I liked most of the parts and pieces provided in the kit.  My only real reservation is the plastic clamps, the short 1 year warranty, and the loose parts block retention system. I was happy to see some of the extras such as the external radiator brackets, the ATX power supply jumper, and the LED modules for both block and reservoir.  It is however very much DIY as in not much of anything is assembled for you in advance and you can expect the full blown DIY build it from many small pieces experience.

There is one important thing missing from the kit though….fluid!  The FCPU kit does come with IandH Deadwater (Copper Sulfate) which is intended to be added to distilled water loops as the biocide, so all I needed was the distilled water.

From my distilled water review here, I found that most grocery store distilled waters work just fine, so I did have to stop at Wal-mart to grab a gallon of distilled.  This is a value kit and as long as you’re not running nickel plated blocks, distilled will work just fine as long as you add a biocide like the Dead Water.


Soo…that’s what I did.  I bought some uber cheap $0.88/gallon distilled at Wal-mart…:)  If you are running nickel plated blocks or other mixed metals in the loop, you should also consider some sort of fluid with corrosion inhibitors.  While I have only really seen regular issues with aluminum or nickel, corrosion is always present and not a bad idea to add an inhibitor if you want to minimize all risk possible. The kit by itself doesn’t have any likely problem metals (all brass/copper/acetal), so I went with the low maintenance, high performing, and low cost solution of distilled.  You don’t always have to pay top dollar to get top performance and this is one example.  Pure water is the best thermal performing liquid and it’s safe to store.  The Copper Sulfate is toxic, but the little bottle is easy to keep stored safely.

That’s it for unboxing stuff, there is quite a bit there (except fluid).  Next we’ll look into the installation side of things.


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  1. Cookiejar says:

    Hi Martin,

    In your RS360 review, the out/in air delta was about 8.8 degrees for 1400rpm fans at about 200w of heat. In this review, given the smaller RS 240 but similar fan speeds and heat loads, I was expecting to see out/in air deltas of maybe 13 degrees? Otherwise, the air wouldn’t be able to carry away the same amount of thermal energy.

    However from your tests, the RS240 seems to be able to dissipate the heat of your overclocked 3930K with only an out/in delta of 3 degrees. This befuddles me, and I can’t understand how the system achieves thermal equilibrium. How is all the rest of the heat lost?

    What are your thoughts on this? Could there be some difference in your air temp measurements as compared to the measurements done in your radiator tester. Maybe the rest of the case air is mixing with the air out?

    Thanks and your site is a great read = ).

    • Martinm210 says:

      Disregard the air out in these kits. It is located such that it gets cold intake air from the front case fan and really not useful or accurate. The air out in my rad bench is controlled and accurate but it is very hard to measure air out without some sort of rad test bench.

      That’s the downside of case testing. It better represents thermals and noise but harder to measure something like air out when you have air coming in all over the place. In the kit testing air in and core temps are really the only thing I can control very well.

  2. Steve Vang says:

    So this kit has everything needed to water cool? No need to buy tubes and screws?

  3. kopi luwak says:

    Hi! I realize this is kind of off-topic however I needed to ask.
    Does running a well-established blog like yours require a lot of work?

    I am brand new to running a blog however I do write in my diary every day.

    I’d like to start a blog so I can share my experience and thoughts online.
    Please let me know if you have any kind of ideas or tips
    for brand new aspiring blog owners. Thankyou!

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