Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 360 Radiator

Posted: April 12, 2012 in Radiators
Tags: , , , ,

Photos

Here is the unboxing photo.  It comes in a nice black box, but no bubble wrap or bag around the radiator.  The screws and plugs come packaged as you see below and then tucked away in a nice little separate box.  Similar to the Xtreme 3 they provide two lengths of screws to facilitate different fan gasket thicknesses.  What is unique though is the “Copper” theme which I like although I wish the copper had some sort of coating on it to minimize tarnishing.

Next is a look at the copper foil logo and what is an extremely valuable feature.  Notice there is not your typical “Watch the screw lengths warning”, that is because this radiator has a screw protection shield to protect the water channels from screw damage.  That alone is a really amazing feature as anyone that has been water cooling long enough has experienced the results of rad screw puncture syndrome…I have done it myself a few times now.  No worries with this rad though.  The copper foil logo looks pretty cool from a distance, but I did have one logo that was slightly wavy and peeling on the edge so it’s not quite as durable as a metal formed stamping.  That’s ok though, at least this gives you the option of removal if you’re going for a more stealthy build.

While most radiators give you two ports, the UT60 gives you 3 in and 3 out for a plethora of unique tubing routing options.

These extra ports could also serve as a means to rejoin parallel loop configurations, etc.

But that’s not where the ports end, we have one more on the bottom of the radiator that can be used to help bleed air or used as a fill port, etc.

The extra port is nice, but as you can see above the copper on the plugs is very easily marked with your fingers.  They really need some sort of shellac or protective coating.

Next is a closer look at the fin density, the tube spacing is a bit closer than other rads and the density measured about a 9.6FPI across the 5 inches shown below.

And one more close up to show build quality of the fins which is excellent.

Build quality is very good with the exception of the copper logo sticker that was slightly peeling.  The screws are however the smaller M3 threading which requires a bit more care to avoid any cross threading.  I prefer M4, but M3 does work fine with care.

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5

Comments
  1. JackNaylorPE says:

    As a follow up …..

    http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/dec2001/1009665868.Cs.r.html

    “Lets say that you have three servers, each consuming 300 watts of
    electricity, and a monitor producing 100 watts of heat. So the heat load
    from the electrical equipment is 1000 watts total. Now it is true that a
    few watts of power exits the room in the wires, but essentially all of the
    electric power that the equipment uses is converted to heat.”

    See also http://www.overclock.net/t/126350/heat-from-cpu-w

    Finally, you’ll also note that plugging anything into the PSU calculator

    http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

    and for determining ya heat sink size

    http://www.extreme.outervision.com/tools.jsp

    give the exact same number

    • Martinm210 says:

      It is true that there are heat losses through the motherboard, but there are also significant cooling losses with heat recirculation, dust, and air flow restrictions. Even more important is the actual loading in real world use vs. synthetic testing. Any amount of heat/cooling planning is good enough, don’t get too caught up in the being exact.

      • JackNaylorPE says:

        Certainly true …. I make that point often over on OCN….. I always calculate the numbers and find out what the math says should be the number. That’s the idealized goal :)…… then we get to reality. As I remember the radiator sides / shroud is not accounted for in your graphs….there’s also the res, tubing, fittings all of the components, backplates, etc.

        So once I get the number for the 10C “ideal”, I look at what can realistically fit and look for the most cost effective / realistic alternative. In my current build, at 1250 rpm, I can exhaust 62% of the idealized heat output thru my rads…. this creeps up to 87% at 1800 rpm. At real loads….I think I’ll ever tax even the 62% loading.

  2. elect86 says:

    Hi Martin,

    I am going to build a liquid cooled rig, let’s say with several 7990.. It is better to rely on a single massive radiator like the mora 3 pro (9-18×140) or several smaller like this one, the ut60 360?
    I guess the first solution is the most efficient, but the second one has the advantage to insert a radiator between some gpus..

    What do you think?

  3. Guy Cotnoir says:

    Hi Martin.
    Considering the very linear curve of the UT60 performance, would it be fair to assume 600 w ofcooling at 4000 rpm (twice that at 2000 rpm and 4 times that at 1000 rpm) ?

  4. Guy Cotnoir says:

    Hi Martin.
    Considering the very linear curve of the UT60 performance, would it be fair to assume 600 w ofcooling at 4000 rpm (twice that at 2000 rpm and 4 times that at 1000 rpm) ?
    And what cooling power would you estimate at 4000 rpm in push/pull?

  5. JackNaylorPE says:

    I can’t imagine being in the same room w/ 4000 rpm fans, I can’t be in the same room with a H100 and it’s 2,600 rpm fans due to the 60 dBA vacuum cleaner level equivalent sound.

    As for cooling, martin would know better but from my experience with building ventilation, after a certain point, the air resistance and turbulence brings a point of diminishing returns.